Does Your Skin Need a Face Oil? Here’s What the Science Says
Face oils have become a staple in many skincare routines (and for good reason!) but what are they actually doing for your skin?
We often talk about hydration, but healthy-looking skin also relies on lipids. The outermost layer of our skin contains a carefully organised mixture of ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids that plays an important role in supporting the skin barrier and limiting water loss.
This is where a thoughtfully chosen face oil can earn its place in your ritual.
Facial oils can help soften and smooth the skin, replenish emollient lipids and help reduce moisture loss... and more importantly, they make us feel like we're indulging in a little luxury! But not all oils are the same. Their fatty-acid composition, formulation and the way they're used all matter. Research into topical plant oils shows that different oils can have very different effects on the skin depending on their composition.
And that's something we're particularly interested in at CactiSkin.
Hydration and oil aren't the same thing
One of the biggest misconceptions about face oils is that oil and hydration are the same thing.
They're not quite.
Hydration relates to the skin's water content. Ingredients known as humectants - such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid - help attract and retain water in the outer layers of the skin.
Oils primarily work differently. They act as emollients, helping soften and smooth the skin, while some can also help reduce the amount of water escaping from the skin's surface.
This is why we don't see face oil as competing with moisturiser.
We see the two as complementary steps within a skincare ritual.
A moisturiser can deliver water, humectants and other skin-supporting ingredients, while a facial oil can provide additional emollience and lipid-rich nourishment.
Why do lipids matter to our skin?
Think of the outermost layer of your skin - the stratum corneum - a little like a brick wall.
The skin cells are often described as the bricks, while a carefully organised mixture of lipids including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids forms part of the structure around them.
These lipids play an important role in maintaining the skin barrier and controlling transepidermal water loss - essentially, how readily water escapes through the skin.
One fatty acid we're particularly interested in is linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid involved in normal epidermal barrier function.
Linoleic acid is incorporated into specialised ceramides within the skin, and research has demonstrated its importance to normal barrier structure and function.
And this is where the composition of a facial oil becomes important.
Not all plant oils are created equal
“Plant oil” is a broad term.
Different botanical oils contain different proportions of fatty acids and other naturally occurring compounds. As a result, two oils can behave very differently when applied to the skin.
Research reviews examining topical plant oils have found that their effects depend significantly on their individual composition.
So for us, choosing an oil isn't simply about whether it's natural.
It's about what's actually inside it.
Why cactus seed oil?
This is where our own story began.
Prickly pear cactus (Opuntia ficus-indica) produces tiny seeds from which an extraordinary oil can be extracted.
Cactus seed oil is characterised by a high proportion of unsaturated fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, alongside naturally occurring tocopherols, including forms of vitamin E.
These compounds are part of what first made us so interested in the potential of cactus seed oil for skincare.
Linoleic acid is particularly relevant because of its established role in the skin's lipid structure and barrier function. Vitamin E compounds, meanwhile, are recognised for their antioxidant properties.
It doesn't mean cactus seed oil is a miracle ingredient, we don't believe skincare needs those kinds of claims.
What interests us is the composition of the oil itself and how it can be thoughtfully incorporated into skincare formulations.
That's why cactus seed oil became the foundation of CactiSkin.
What can a face oil actually do?
Used as part of a balanced routine, a well-chosen facial oil can help:
- soften and smooth the skin
- replenish the skin with emollient lipids
- reduce feelings of dryness and tightness
- help limit moisture loss
- leave skin feeling more supple and comfortable
Vegetable oils are widely used in skincare for their emollient properties, although their effects can vary considerably depending on their fatty-acid profile and composition.
The goal isn't simply to put more oil onto the skin.
It's to choose oils that make sense within the formulation and for the experience you want from the product.
But what if you have oily or combination skin?
The word oil can understandably make people with oily or combination skin nervous.
But having oily skin doesn't automatically mean all facial oils are off limits.
The particular oil, formulation, amount applied, other products in your routine and most importantly how your own skin responds all matter.
And more isn't necessarily better.
A couple of drops may be all that's needed. Some people may prefer facial oil primarily in the evening, during colder weather or whenever their skin feels as though it needs additional nourishment.
That's why we prefer to think of skincare as a ritual that can adapt to your skin, rather than a rigid list of steps that has to be followed every day.
Pure cactus seed oil or an oil blend?
At CactiSkin, we make both because they offer two different experiences.
Pure Cactus Seed Oil
Our Pure Cactus Seed Oil is 100% Opuntia ficus-indica seed oil.
Nothing added.
It's for someone who wants to experience cactus seed oil in its purest form. A beautifully simple, single-ingredient facial oil naturally rich in linoleic acid and vitamin E.
Just a few drops are needed.
Light Face Oil
Our Light Face Oil takes a different approach.
We combine prickly pear seed oil with complementary botanical oils including rice bran, jojoba, rosehip and watermelon seed oil, together with vitamin E and bisabolol.
The result is a lighter, versatile facial oil designed for everyday nourishment and a soft, comfortable finish.
Neither is about being “better.”
They're about giving you different ways to incorporate cactus seed oil into your ritual.
When should you use a face oil?
We generally like facial oil before our moisturiser, but really it comes down to personal preference!
And you don't necessarily have to use exactly the same amount every day.
Some nights your skin may want more. Other nights, less.
So, does your skin need a face oil?
For skin that feels dry, depleted or in need of additional nourishment, a thoughtfully chosen facial oil can be a valuable addition to your ritual.
But the real question isn't simply whether oils are “good” or “bad” for skin.
It's about understanding what a particular oil contains, what it contributes to a formulation and what your own skin needs.
For us, that journey began with cactus seed oil and understanding what lies naturally within it.
It remains at the heart of what we formulate today.
Your skin. Your ritual.